Oil Plus 2C

SheenPlus can be applied over Oil Plus 2C (after minimum 24 hours) to increase the sheen level. Attention: SheenPlus can't be applied to raw wood.

5 days.

Rubio Monocoat Oil Plus 2C is a unique, single-component, oil-based finish that provides superior protection and color to wooden surfaces.

Tests have confirmed that Oil Plus 2C is food safe and fully compliant when applied to a wooden surface.

Choosing the right color for your wood finishing product can be a difficult process. Some popular colors of the Oil Plus 2C are Pure, Mist 5%, White 5% and Natural. However, not all three colours will keep your wood as natural as possible.

A 1.3L can will be 52m².

120-150.

4-6 hours.

We would recommend Oil Plus 2C in Mist 5%.

Our Oil Plus 2C can be safely used on a food contact surface. We even have a Food Contact Compliance from an independent testing institute (Eurofins).

Respect a minimum drying time of 12 to 24 hours while ensuring sufficient ventilation. Afterwards you can use the surface again.

36 months.

Simply put, Pure contains no pigment and Natural contains a creamy whitish/yellowish pigment. Which one is clear? Neither. While Pure contains no pigment, clear is not the best description because Oil Plus 2C is a linseed oil based product. Linseed oil has a naturally occurring colour to it, which will enrich/darken the wood compared to its raw state. Keeping your wood looking natural requires introducing just enough pigment to off-set the enriching/darkening caused by using an oil-based finish. This depends on the type of wood.

Max. 4-6 hours.

You can remove the excess by using a Rubio Monocoat purple GS320 Pad. Go over the surface with this pad to equalise the colour and remove all the excess. Change the pad regularly. Once this is done, apply a new thin layer of Oil Plus 2C in the original colour.

You can achieve a more intense colour through various ways: - Sanding method: use a lower grit. The smoother the surface is, the less oil and pigments will penetrate in the wood, resulting in a less coloured surface. We recommend using grit 100 for flooring and grit 100 - 150 for furniture, stairs and worktops. - Use WoodPrep instead of Cleaner. - Use one of our optional pre-treatments Pre-Aging or Precolor Easy. Certainly do not try to apply multiple layers. Once the fibres are bonded with the oil, the wood doesn’t absorb any surplus product – which makes a second layer superfluous.

Unequal colour can be due to several things: 1. Unequal sanding The smoother the surface, the less oil can penetrate in the wood and the less intense the colour will be. So maybe you haven't sanded the whole surface the same way or you didn't change the sanding paper regularly and because of that the paper was already worn by the end. This means you sanded the last parts much smoother than in the beginning, resulting in a different colour. Tip: if you're working with an orbital hand sander, make sure you're not pushing too hard and you're not working on the highest setting. How to fix it? Unfortunately the only option to fix this is by re-sanding the surface until the whole treatment has been removed and then to re-oil. Tip: After sanding, use WoodPrep. This product will help to minimise sanding errors. The product avoids (or reduces) potential for visible sanding swirls, provides a more consistent and even colour penetration with an uneven finish sanding and a more consistent colour penetration on naturally blotchy wood species (e.g. maple). 2. The excess was not removed sufficiently It's important that once the oil has made the molecular bonding, you remove all the excess. Otherwise this will result in a sticky non-equal coloured surface that is prone to scratches. Make sure you regularly change the white pad or the cotton cloth you're using to remove the excess. How to fix it? Use a maroon Rubio Monocoat GS320 pad to remove the bit of excess there might be left on the surface. Go over the whole surface and equalise the colour. Don't forget to change pads regularly. Once you have obtained an equal colour, vacuum thoroughly and re-apply a bit of oil. The consumption will be a lot lower than the first time you treated the surface. 3. The oil wasn't mixed well enough or you used different containers for one job After a while, pigments will sink to the bottom. Always stir the oil well before use and regularly during application. How to fix it? Unfortunately the only option to fix this is by re-sanding the surface until the whole treatment has been removed and then to re-oil. 4. Different patches in the wood Differences in colour can also be due to the different patterns in the wood. Lighter and darker patches are perfectly normal, it's simply one of the natural characteristics of wood. Oil is a always a transparent finish so it won't hide these differences. How to fix it? If you wish to hide the natural colour differences of the wood you'll need something more covering than just Oil Plus 2C. You can use a pre-treatment like Precolor Easy which you finish off with Oil Plus 2C. However, if you have already treated the surface with Oil Plus 2C, you'll first have to remove the oil by sanding. Tip: be careful with dark colours on blotchy wood species (e.g. maple, birch, ...). Dark colours will highlight the different patches in the wood. Use a light colour instead or use WoodPrep after sanding. This will provide a more consistent colour penetration.

No, this is absolutely not an option.

If there isn't any discolouration, you can remove the residues with Grease Remover. Afterwards, most probably you'll have re-oil a bit with Oil Plus 2C in the original colour afterwards. If there is discoloration, due to the plasticizers in the tape, use Limespot Remover. Here again, you'll have to re-oil with Oil Plus 2C in the original colour. Tip: make sure you never use tape with plasticizers or softeners in. This will damage the Oil Plus 2C.

You can, but we always advise you to use both parts to achieve an optimal finish.